ENERGY STAR rated equipment is higher than minimum efficiency (SEER for cooling systems, AFUE for gas furnaces, and HSPF for heat pumps in the winter mode).

Again, if the equipment has the VERY desirable feature of variable speed/capacity, it will most likely be ENERGY STAR rated. Check ENERGY STAR for more information about heating and cooling.

Check here for federal tax incentives that are available for heat pumps. 

Also, be sure to check with your local utility to see what incentives may be available. You can learn more here: www.dsireusa.org.

Check to see if your utility has any preferred contractors based on their credentials- not based on the number of systems installed. A good question to ask your potential HVAC contractor is about training and credentials that they have acquired. Many contractors are trained to only diagnose the unit and don’t understand the importance of the duct system and airflow concerns, so ask about these potential problem spots.

Some HVAC contractors are also knowledgeable about home performance contracting and thus tend to have a more holistic “House as a System” approach. Ask if the contractor performs Manual J load calculations. If the contractor doesn’t do load calculations, how do they know what size system is correct for your home?

For a deeper dive, check out the Southface Institute webinars on load calculations and ductwork.

Instead of burning fuel to produce heat, a heat pump moves heat from one location to another. In the summer, a heat pump is identical to an air conditioner – it “pumps” heat from inside the house to the hotter outdoors by circulating a refrigerant. A “heat pump” differs from an AC in that it can reverse its direction and “pump” heat from the colder outdoors in winter and deliver this heat to the inside for space heating.

An electric motor that drives a compressor to circulate a refrigerant is the heart of any air conditioner/heat pump system.

Most HVAC filters are only 1 inch thick, should be changed monthly, and are there mainly to protect the equipment, not to capture particles that affect indoor air quality. While more efficient 1-inch filters are available, they can cause reduced airflow, which strains the equipment and can affect performance. A thicker, 2-5 inch pleated filter that is properly sized can offer excellent filtration without overworking the main blower. An added benefit is that a better filter can last 6 months to a year and capture smaller particles that affect human health.

For a deeper dive, check out the Southface Institute webinars on ventilation and IAQ. 

Yes. All homes should be constructed tightly to reduce drafts and control unwanted intrusions like pollen and moisture from entering. Since people live in the house, it is important to both provide fresh air from outside and to exhaust pollutants from kitchens and bathrooms from inside the home. There are several strategies for providing positive pressure ventilation as well as Energy Recovery Ventilators (ERVs) to create balanced pressure air changes.

For a deeper dive, check out the Southface Institute webinars on ventilation and IAQ.

An LED bulb produces light by passing the electric current through a semiconducting material known as a diode. This then emits photons (light) through the principle of electroluminescence. LED lights do not rely on heat to produce light, which means they run cooler and are much more energy efficient than incandescent light bulbs.

To check whether a light bulb is energy efficient, unscrew the bulb and read the wattage. An LED bulb will deliver the same light as an incandescent for about 1/6 of the power. For example, a 60 Watt incandescent bulb can be replaced with a 9-10 Watt LED that produces the same light output (lumens).

When an incandescent bulb has been on, the bulb surface is too hot to touch comfortably; even a fluorescent bulb will be fairly warm when operating. An LED base may be hot, but the bulb is usually barely warm.

Today, LED bulbs are affordable and offer many features. The added cost, if any, is minimal and would likely be paid back in less than one year. The savings from LEDs are even better in the summer since less heat from your lights means less work for the air conditioner.

No! Due to their affordability, it is actually much more economical to replace all incandescent bulbs immediately with LED lighting. Over the life of an incandescent bulb, the cost of the bulb is very small compared to the cost of the energy it uses. Switching to 100% LED lighting is one of the economic “no-brainers” in terms of efficiency.

ENERGY STAR LED bulbs are approximately the same efficiency as generic LED bulbs but the key difference is quality and bulb life.

Check out this ENERGY STAR link to light bulbs and this link to certified light fixtures for more information on LED bulbs.

Usually yes, but only by a small amount. Improved quality and features plus reduced operating costs can help to offset the marginally higher initial cost.

ENERGY STAR works with manufacturers to set efficiency standards for appliances and periodically reviews the degree to which the more efficient appliances have achieved market penetration. After a certain point, the standards are increased.

Check out this ENERGY STAR link to products. 

One of the easiest ways to determine the “cream of the crop” is to review ENERGY STAR’s Most Efficient list for a particular year. This allows you to find the manufacturer of the very best in any appliance category.

For example, there are many ceiling fans available on the market and quite a few meet the ENERGY STAR criteria. However, checking ENERGY STAR’s Most Efficient list for ceiling fans yields a handful of DC-motor-based ceiling fans. These fans typically use a whopping 70% less energy than standard AC-motor-based ceiling fans. Common settings of under 30 Watts on high speed, 10-20 Watts on medium, and a miserly 2 Watts on low speed push this technology to the top of any efficiency list. If you have ceiling fans that you run frequently, upgrade them to DC-motor based units.

There may be. Always check with your utility and also with www.dsireusa.org.

Occasionally there are sales days on purchases of ENERGY STAR appliances with no state tax added.

There are several different options for water heaters in Georgia.

With gas as the fuel source, the standard gas tank units are less expensive than tankless units. Their installed gas line is sized for a modest-sized burner (~40,000 Btu/h) and they often have a pilot light which negatively affects their standby losses; most are minimum efficiency. Tankless gas units often have significantly higher up-front costs and may have a hidden retrofit installation charge to upsize the gas supply line. They include electronic ignition (no pilot light), come in both standard and high efficiency and are also inherently more efficient because they only heat the water being drawn at that moment. Given these factors, the payback on gas tankless retrofits may be very long but their other features may still be desirable.

With electricity as the fuel source, a tank is the way to go. Tankless electric may seem like a good idea, but it will require significantly more electrical infrastructure to “force” the heat into the water as it flows by and is not friendly to the utility. These are best used only in remote locations like far-away restrooms.

Electric resistance tank water heaters are simple and have relatively low upfront costs. However, their operating cost is extremely high since they rely on electric resistance elements to heat the water in the tank. When electricity is used as the fuel, a heat pump water heater is a vastly better solution depending on the location and circumstances. Since heat pump water heaters are about three times as efficient as electric tank units, their operating cost is substantially less and this helps to pay back their higher upfront cost fairly quickly (~2-5 years). A basement is an ideal location for a heat pump water heater since the heat pump provides free dehumidification of the basement when it operates. These units do require some amount of volume around them to extract the heat from (some can be ducted to other locations) and they are noisier than typical water heaters so properly locating them is important.

Yes, particularly the cost to retrofit a gas tank to a tankless gas unit. Besides the appliance itself costing more, the retrofit installation likely involves upsizing the gas line, which adds to the installed cost. While there may be other features of a tankless gas water heater that are appealing (like not running out of hot water, safer combustion, ability to side vent with PVC pipe, etc.), generally the economics of the energy savings alone make this retrofit into a long (25+ years) payback.

Electric heat pump water heaters however have a favorable payback (~2-5 years) over a traditional electric resistance tank unit.

ENERGY STAR selects the higher efficiency units in a category comparing the UEF of similar appliances. Again, it is apples to oranges to compare gas to electric UEFs.

Check out the list of certified water heaters from ENERGY STAR. 

There may be. Always check with your utility – particularly for rebates on heat pump water heaters – and also check www.dsireusa.org.

Occasionally there are sales days on purchases of ENERGY STAR appliances with no state tax added.

Hot water distribution losses are probably more important than the device that actually makes the hot water, but are not as well understood. There are antiquated plumbing codes that can lead to widespread problems with poor hot water distribution. Ideally, hot water lines should be small in diameter because all of the volume of water in the hot line must be run down the drain before hot water can reach the fixture. This is especially important with the advent of low-flow fixtures.

Also, the source of hot water should be centrally placed with the fixtures located as close as possible to the device. For larger homes, it may be better to have two water heaters that are not located near each other but instead are located near the fixtures they serve.

For existing homes, a demand-controlled circulating pump can be a great retrofit that will save energy as well as add convenience by getting hot water to all the fixtures faster. It is important that the controls be demand-based, as timer and thermostat controls require more energy use.

A simple thing to do once or twice a year is to connect a hose to the drain valve and rapidly flush water from the bottom of the tank a few times. This helps to remove the sediment at the bottom of the tank which impacts the unit’s life.

A great resource is www.waterheaterrescue.com.

One option is to insulate all accessible hot water piping. You should be cautious of adhesive-type pipe insulation as the glue tends to fail over time. Adding zip ties can ensure it holds permanently.

You can also consider retrofitting to a demand-based circulation system and utilizing low-flow fixtures, especially EPA WaterSense-rated showerheads and faucets.

As new water technologies emerge, it is important to work with plumbers who keep their skills current. Ask them about demand-based circulation systems, insulation for all hot water piping, and WaterSense fixtures. If you are building a new home or structure, ask about pipe sizing.

Due to solar gain, a lighter-colored, reflective roof surface will absorb the least amount of solar energy on a hot summer day. Besides color, the roof texture will impact its ability to reflect or gain energy. A black fiberglass or asphalt shingle is a very good absorber of radiant solar energy – NOT a desirable feature in a home that is air-conditioned.

While many roofers think attic ventilation is critical (Spoiler: it really isn’t that important!), it turns out that venting out the hot attic air is just treating the symptom of radiant solar gain and not the cause. Code minimum venting is fine – just don’t ever use a powered attic ventilator fan since it often cools by sucking air-conditioned air from the house up into the attic, which is wasteful. To keep a vented attic cool, either install a reflective, less absorptive roofing material or install a radiant barrier on the underside of the roof decking (facing the attic).

Metal roofing costs more but has the benefit of high recycled content, strong durability and less solar absorption. Special coatings can be added to metal roofs to make them more reflective regardless of their color.

In general, there is no significant difference between a flat or sloped roof in terms of efficiency. The amount of insulation and the decision to place ducts and HVAC equipment in a hot attic have a much bigger impact.

Green roofs, also known as vegetative roofs, offer significant environmental benefits if installed over adequate continuous insulation. However, they generally have a very high installed cost. If a (usually flat) green roof is considered an amenity and the roof space is utilized as such, the cost can be easier to justify. Benefits include energy efficiency from less solar gain, reduced heat island impact, natural habitat, potential amenity space, and stormwater retention.

Generally, more efficient (lighter, reflective) shingles are not significantly more expensive than dark shingles. However, product availability can sometimes be a challenge.

Likewise, the premium on coated metal roofs is fairly small.

Yes – for more information from ENERGY STAR about cool roofs emissivity, click this link. 

Good roofing contractors will attempt to recycle old roofing and divert the material from landfills. They will ensure that the drip edge is properly installed to protect the fascia from rotting. You should ask them about valley flashing details as well as creating diverting “crickets” around fireplace chimneys. While it may be an upcharge, peel-and-stick membranes in valleys and at roof edges can add longevity and durability and are likely worth the investment.

Arguably any code-compliant double-pane low-E window is significantly more efficient than a single pane window. Newer frames made of extruded fiberglass offer all the benefits of wood or vinyl frames but without their downsides- wood is a renewable resource but can rot, while vinyl is durable, but it is toxic in its manufacturing.

Upgrading windows likely will save some energy and should improve comfort. However the cost of replacing windows is very high and the energy savings will likely not pay back the retrofit for a very long time (more than 25 years), so be wary of outrageous claims. It’s fine to replace your windows, just don’t expect a fast payback.

Storm windows may be more economical. Exterior storm windows can often be added for a fraction of the cost of window replacement. Interior storm windows are also available and generally have a better aesthetic. But, they also cost more. Low-E storm windows are available and are likely worth the upgrade over clear glass and they help with both winter heat loss as well as summer solar gain.

If solar gain is the primary concern, there are exterior shade screens that can drastically help. These are basically thicker weave window screens. You can also consider adding tints and films to the glass. All of these tend to affect the overall aesthetic, which may be a factor.

Super, high-end, and very expensive triple pane low-E windows do exist, but they are not commonly sold in Georgia since their very high cost is hard to justify. Code compliant new windows are generally good choices

Standard, no-name brand double-pane low-E windows today are generally good performers and don’t have a cost premium. However, name-brand windows are often significantly more expensive for a similar energy performance, but they do generally offer higher quality and a substantial warranty.

Standards change but generally, ENERGY STAR windows are equal to or lower (better) than code-compliant windows on U-factor and SHGC.

A good contractor will not promise outrageous savings due to window replacement. A reputable contractor will be trained and certified and demonstrate lead-safe practices (RRP) for houses built before 1978. Good window installation will exhibit proper air sealing into the rough opening – generally using backer rod and caulk or appropriate expanding foam for windows. Inquire about proper flashing details – head flashing at the top and pan flashing at the bottom of the window’s rough opening.

If siding is being replaced, an energy efficiency improvement option is to add continuous insulation over the existing sheathing. This will affect wall thickness, but it can be incorporated with attention to detail. Continuous wall insulation with a drainage plane behind the cladding will save energy and reduce moisture risk.

A reputable contractor will be trained and certified and demonstrate lead-safe practices (RRP) for houses built before 1978.

Good cladding installation will exhibit proper air sealing of the sheathing joints and any penetrations, such as around the rough opening of windows. Details about the water-shedding surface, which may be flashed house wrap, felt paper, or the skin of rigid foam insulation boards, as well as the furring strips to create the drainage plane, are critical. Inquire about proper flashing and air sealing details.

For painted surface cladding, especially wood-based siding, make sure that the cladding is primed on all surfaces-front and back, top and bottom but also at all end grain cuts. These details will extend the time between painting dramatically and are worth the effort.

Walls of existing homes older than a certain age (pre-1990s) may not have any insulation in the framed cavity. With some types of cladding, it is possible to remove a row of siding or drill holes to dense pack insulation (usually cellulose or fiberglass) into the cavities. This process can also be done from inside the home, but it can be messy so it may be best suited for during an interior renovation. If the siding is removed, consider adding continuous insulation over the existing wall sheathing.

Insulation that has been certified by EPA-recognized third-party certification bodies is independently tested to ensure it delivers performance while meeting strict safety standards. ENERGY STAR only partners with insulation manufacturers that agree to have their products tested by a third-party certification body. ENERGY STAR also requires that certified insulation is tested to meet flame retardancy requirements to help promote fire safety.

The performance of insulation is also highly dependent on the quality of the installation. That is why ENERGY STAR requires manufacturer partners to include instructions that clearly explain how to install their products to ensure maximum performance. Instructions also include safety information to protect the health of you and your family.

Basic envelope improvements can be implemented by the homeowner with a little bit of DIY capability and relatively affordable materials like caulk, canned foam, mastic, and foam board. Hiring a contractor to perform the basic envelope improvements can cost a few thousand dollars, but likely less than $10,000.

Major projects like proper crawl space encapsulation with wall insulation and a dehumidifier are likely bigger investments as are HVAC equipment replacements.